TABLE TALK #79
Ask any British person who has moved abroad, at least to a warm country, what they miss about the UK and they will inevitably say “not much”, before conceding that the changing of the seasons is up there.
Today, we’re talking seasonality and the glorious, if sometimes unsettling, impact it has on what we eat.
🍡 AMUSE-BOUCHES 🍡
Dance: images that capture the ecstasy of the 70s disco scene in New York.
Wine: blends are out, single vineyards are in in Champagne.
Environment: Waitrose removes the neck sleeves from its own label wines.
🍝 MAIN COURSE 🍝
Barbecues, or brais or whatever you might call them (#26), are inextricably linked with meat. Sausages, burgers, ribs, occasionally steak if your host is feeling fancy. That said, I think I’m part of a growing minority of people who may relish a barbecue for the sides…
I’m talking bowls of rocket, tomatoes and mozzarella, potato salads and coleslaw, all of which serve to elevate the occasion no end. The joy of these dishes is that they’re all relatively easy to prepare, allowing hosts and guests alike to maximise their time outside, soaking in those precious hours of sunshine and time with friends.
Having volunteered to prepare a ‘slaw recently, I sauntered down to the supermarket only to be met with a notable absence of red cabbage. All these other jokers must be making one too, I thought, my commitment to its few simple ingredients leading me to another shop nearby, where I was met with a similar sight - no red cabbage.
A shining example of a red cabbage coleslaw
Returning home, one red cabbage short of a coleslaw, it dawned on me that the offending item must be out of season, and that, in reality, I knew very little about the seasonality of our fruit and veg here in the UK. Sure, strawberries make an appearance in the summer, but very little beyond that.
A few clicks later, it was a joy to be scanning through lists of seasonal fruit and veg, conjuring up images of grilled asparagus sat alongside watercress salads, the leftovers of which could make their way into a beautiful summer soup.
Employing seasonal vegetables need not be the preserve of fancy London restaurants or a buzzword used by your favourite chef - it’s easy, it’s cost-effective and it’s good for the planet, so this summer, let’s all make the most of what’s right on our doorstep.
Larry Levan making it happen
🍮 SWEET ENDINGS 🍮
King of satire, Kurt Vonnegut, had this advice to share with a graduating high school back in 2006. His words feel as fresh now as they did then, written only six months before his death.
