Few foods are as steeped in superstition, symbolism, and seasonal anticipation as the humble hot cross bun.
But where did they really come from, and why do they inspire such a mix of reverence and ritual?
Today’s Table Talk dives into their rich, spiced history.
Tracing the origins of the hot cross bun is like following a trail of flour through history – messy and a bit all over the place.
Some say we have Brother Thomas Rodcliffe of St Albans to thank, who in 1361 handed out ‘Alban Buns’ to the poor on Good Friday. Others argue medieval monks were marking their loaves with crosses long before Rodcliffe ever picked up a mixing bowl.
Then, if you roll the dough back further, you find that the Saxons were baking small, spiced loaves with a cross to honour Eostre – the goddess of spring and fertility, whose name may well have inspired ‘Easter’ itself.
These buns weren’t just for eating; they were offerings, baked to welcome the longer days and, hopefully, stay in Eostre’s good books.
Alban Bun Bakers at historic Redbournbury Mill
Photo Credit: Jason Ingram
For a food so connected with religion, it’s ironic that hot cross buns once found themselves at the centre of suspicion. Under Elizabeth I, they were briefly banned during the Protestant Reformation for being a little too ‘Catholic’ – unless you baked them at home or for Good Friday, Christmas, or burials.
The ban didn’t last long, thankfully, but their air of contention lingered on.
In English folklore, hot cross buns were said to have mystical powers. A Good Friday bun, they claimed, would never go mouldy – though that sounds suspiciously like an excuse from someone who really didn’t fancy doing the washing up. Kept all year, buns were also believed to ward off fires, heal the sick, and protect your home.
There’s also an old tradition that sharing a hot cross bun with a friend strengthens the bond between you – hence the rhyme: "Half for you and half for me, between us both shall goodwill be."
Photo Credit: Pump Street
These days, hot cross buns have had a bit of a glow-up.
The classic mix of spice and dried fruit remains a firm favourite (Nigella’s recipe is a solid gold classic, if you fancy making your own), but bakers and brands are now pushing the boat out with unexpected twists. This round-up of Quirky Hot Cross Buns To Try This Easter has some brilliant takes, from rhubarb and custard to tiramisu.
Oh and Pump Street Bakery’s buns are hard to beat, if you’re willing to splurge a little.
All this talk of an Easter favourite has us feeling distinctly springy.
It’s the season of hope and optimism – and right now, I’m feeling that way about our business too.
Last week we hit our highest ever number of monthly returning customers online. A slightly geeky milestone to celebrate, but a lovely sign of just how many of you are enjoying our (now not-so-new) broader range and turning to Wednesday’s Domaine on the reg.
A huge thank you to everyone who keeps coming back – we appreciate it more than you know.
Until next week,
Luke x
