TABLE TALK

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⚙️ Table Talk #153: How Irish Butter Conquered the World 🧈

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TABLE TALK #153

Irish butter has always had a certain magic about it - that deep yellow glow, that impossibly creamy texture, that taste that makes you wonder if something so simple can really be that good. But behind every pat lies a story far older and richer than you might expect - one that spans centuries, seas, and is paid glorious homage to in a curious little museum in Cork.

🍝 MAIN COURSE 🍝 
Back in the 18th and 19th centuries Cork was the beating heart of the global butter trade. At its peak, more than 400,000 firkins (that’s small barrels, if you’re rusty on butter measurements) passed through the Cork Butter Exchange each year, heading everywhere from California to The Caribbean. 

It was, by all accounts, the world’s largest butter market - and unusually for its time, it operated with meticulous quality control. Inspectors would sniff, taste and grade each firkin before export, a system that helped turn Irish Butter into one of the earliest examples of a global food brand.

That legacy lives on at The Butter Museum - a small and satisfyingly symmetrical spot housed in a former market building in Cork’s Shandon quarter. Inside you’ll find thousand-year-old bog butter, hand-churns, and an extraordinary archive of vintage butter wrappers that design lovers would happily frame.

Photo Credit - David Maguire
Accidentally Wes Anderson

As for modern-day fame, no story of Irish butter would be complete without a spotlight on Kerrygold. Launched in 1962, it took what Ireland had been doing best for years and wrapped it in a name that sounded unmistakably Irish. The idea was simple but revolutionary - unite the country’s many local creameries under one national brand, creating a product that could stand proudly on the world stage.

Made from the milk of grass-fed cows and rich in butterfat, it quickly became synonymous with quality and care. Its golden hue, a natural result of all that lush pasture, became its calling card - a small, visible sign of something honest and good. 

Today, Kerrygold is the second best-selling butter in the United States - a wild feat for a small Irish export - and continues to fly off supermarket shelves from Dublin to Düsseldorf. Not bad for something that began as a collective effort to give farmers a fairer price and the country a shared story. Proof, perhaps, that authenticity goes a very long way.

Photo Credit: Kerrygold

 

🍮 SWEET ENDINGS 🍮

If a museum devoted to butter feels niche, it’s in good company.

Around the world, there are over forty museums devoted entirely to food. A ramen museum in Yokohama, a mustard museum in Wisconsin, and even one dedicated entirely to burnt food in Massachusetts.

🍷 WHAT'S NEW
FROM
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I’m really delighted to see how well both our new Subscription offer and Build a Case are going down - it’s been brilliant hearing how much you’re enjoying the personalisation and flexibility each brings respectively.

Truth be told, we’ve wanted to offer this kind of choice from the start, but it takes a certain level of scale (and a fair bit of behind-the-scenes tinkering) to get there. It’s a great feeling to finally be able to make it happen - and even better that it’s being so well received.

Here’s to more ways to enjoy your favourite bottles, your way.
 
Until next time,
Luke x

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