TABLE TALK #130
In an age where everyone’s a critic, what is it that elevates some commentators into national treasures while others remain relegated to the ranks of the obscure?
Today’s Table Talk delves into the curious commonalities between restaurant critics, cricket commentators and goggleboxers. None of which, on paper, are your run-of-the-mill experts, yet their story telling and familiarity have us hooked.
🍝 MAIN COURSE 🍝
At first, the connection between restaurant critics, cricket commentators and Gogglebox stars might seem tenuous - and yet there’s an undeniable thread that links them all. Each, in their own realms, serve as storytellers whose ways of engaging their audiences is very much grounded in the everyday.
Sure, a restaurant critic may know the difference between a classic béchamel and a velouté, but they’re still speaking to us, the everyday diner, who just wants a decent meal.
Similarly, cricket commentators may be fluent in the nuances of swing bowling, but the passion with which they describe the game speaks to the wider joy of sport.
Meanwhile, Gogglebox might be considered low-brow by some, but it speaks to the heart of what makes us human—the shared experience of watching television, reflecting on our lives, and laughing at the absurdity of it all.
Photo Credit: Channel Four
It’s odd, in a way, that critics and commentators speak directly to us, the audience, yet we never speak back. The communication is inherently one-way, yet we welcome them into our lives as unfiltered friends.
Take Gogglebox, for instance. Watching regular people share their unscripted, raw reactions to what’s on TV has become one of the most engaging formats on British television. It’s not their expertise that draws us in, but their personality, their relatability, and their ability to speak candidly.
Likewise, restaurant critics like Grace Dent or Jay Rayner have cultivated a style of writing that isn’t just about evaluating food. It’s about storytelling. They take us on a journey, letting us into their world, offering anecdotes, and sharing their genuine experiences.
In the same way, cricket commentators provide more than just ball-by-ball analysis; they weave narratives, building the tension and drama of the game in real-time…even if you’re listening to them on the radio and can’t even see a smidgen of the action. Indeed sometimes they say nothing at all, letting the murmur of the crowds shine through, comfortable and confident in a moment's silence.
Critics, in their funny way, are a sort of public service. Their opinions helping catalyse our own opinions and in turn kick start wider cultural conversations.
Photo Credit: Jonathan Stewart
🍮 SWEET ENDINGS 🍮
It was the news of Jay Rayner’s departure from The Observer, to join The Financial Times, which got us musing over restaurant critics in the first place. Figures like he have become arbiters of taste, often elevating a restaurant to cult status or effectively closing its doors with a single sentence.
They wield power that far exceeds any official standard, when friends talk about the new “it” restaurant in town, or the latest tasting menu that’s sold out for months, it’s not just the food they’re talking about, but the culture and prestige that surrounds it.
🍷 WHAT'S NEW
FROM
WEDNESDAY'S DOMAINE? 🍷
Looking back to our last Table Talk, it's startling how much changes and happens within a fortnight. Most of November was spent looking towards our production whilst trying to keep you amused while waiting.
Thank flipping finally the new batch lands this week and once again we’re a real life brand with real life wine!
The hugest thank you for your patience and a reminder that if you did want to snap up our little celebratory promo - it's live on our site until end of day Friday.
Until next week,
Luke x
